As soon as I saw the title of Kathleen Flinnâs new book, I knew it would claim a place of pride on my shelf: The Kitchen Counter Cooking School: How a Few Simple Lessons Transformed Nine Culinary Novices into Fearless Home Cooks.
I mean, come on. Havenât I been running my own kitchen counter cooking school for the last few years? In the book, Kat describes how a random bout of snooping in another womanâs shopping cart (a cart filled with boxes and packets of processed âfood,â but no actual ingredients) led her to find ten women who, for one reason or another, were intimidated by their own kitchens. They fed themselves and their families convenience foods because they had no idea how to do anything else. All ten allowed Kat inside their homes to catalogue the contents of their cupboards, and then cooked a typical meal for her. From there, she created a mini-cooking school, devoted to filling in the gaps in her studentsâ knowledge.
The book chronicles Katâs experiment with these womenâwomen who represent so many of us. My own cooking class tends to attract people who are familiar with their kitchens, but need help figuring out how to continue to cook with a baby hanging off their bodies. Every so often, though, a mom signs up (Iâve only had one dad take my class! What is up with that?) whoâs a kitchen newbie. It thrills me, teaching her how to gently smash a clove of garlic with the flat side of a knife and slip off the peel, or that âseason to tasteâ simply means she should add salt and pepper until sheâs happy with the flavor. So as I read Katâs book (I havenât finished it yet, but Iâm enjoying it so much I couldnât wait to tell you about it) Iâm nodding along, smiling, laughing. I expect you will, too. Each chapter ends with a handful of incredibly appealing, remarkably simple recipes.
Before this book, I knew Kat as the author of another wonderful, wonderful bookâone you should read if youâve ever fantasized about dropping everything and heading to, say, the Cordon Bleu in Paris. Itâs called The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry: Love, Laughter, and Tears in Paris at the World’s Most Famous Cooking School.
Go, read it now. Iâll wait.
Anyhoosie, Kat and I had crossed paths before at a food writersâ conference or two, but weâd never actually met. The other night, that finally changed. The Institute for Culinary Education, where Iâve taken quite a few classes, hosted a panel discussion devoted to Katâs new book and the subject of home cooking. Also on the panel: Pam Anderson, who Iâve long worshipped from afar (seriously, her How to Cook Without a Book has been a source of inspiration for the last decade) and Lauren Shockey, a restaurant critic for the Village Voice and author of Four Kitchens: My Life Behind the Burner in New York, Hanoi, Tel Aviv, and Paris.
I went. I had to.
The mingly first 45 minutes were, Iâll admit, torture for me. There was some fabulous food, all prepared from recipes in Kitchen Counter. I met Katâfinally!âand we spoke briefly, but everybody wanted to speak to her. And I didnât know another soul. Friends, I suck at talking to strangers. I jumped on Twitter, begging somebody, anybody, to come rescue me from myself. Ultimately, someone did: Maggie Anderson, Pamâs daughter and one-third (along with her mom and sister) of the most excellent blog Three Many Cooks. Thank god for her. Itâs no wonder sheâs one of the driving forces behind the Big Summer Potluck as well as Bloggers without Borders (who received a portion of the eventâs proceeds; click the âdonateâ button near the top of the right-hand column of this page if youâd like to help spread the love)âsheâs just about the friendliest person on earth.
Anyhoosie, back to the panel. I scribbled down a few choice quotes:
âIâd never been down a frozen food aisle before. Iâm a food writer. I buy ramps.â âKat Flinn, describing her experience stalking the owner of that grocery cart
âThe âPasta Parmesanâ was supposed to replicate pasta with oil and parm. But it had 28 ingredients.â âKat again, on the contents of the cart
âWorking in restaurant kitchens really made me realize how much I wanted to be a home cook, to see the response of the people Iâm cooking for.â âLauren Shockey
âThe solution is different for different people. I was just in Florida showing my aging parents where to find the refrigerated real mashed potatoes, now that they canât really cook from scratch any more.â âPam Anderson, on the notion that minimally-processed food is perfectly acceptable
âMy epitaph is going to be, âItâs fine!ââ âPam Anderson
âYou never learn from doing something right. Only from mistakes.â âPam Anderson
And my favorite quote of the night, the one Iâm going to try to live by:
âPut a picture of the thing you love most in the world in the back of your fridge. You should never have so much stuff in there that you canât see that picture.â âKat Flinn, on how crucial it is not only to have good ingredients on-hand, but also to use them
Kat gave me permission to share a recipe from the book with youâthis is an amazingly flavorful, rich-tasting carrot soup. It was served as a passed hors dâoeuvre, in shot glasses, each one topped with a sprinkle of chopped chives and the teensiest little dollop of yogurt.
So tell me: What’s stopping you from cooking tonight?
Velvety Chilled Rosemary Carrot Soup
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 leeks (white and light green parts), chopped
1 pound carrots, diced
Several fresh rosemary sprigs
1 bay leaf
2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of cayenne (optional)
1/3 cup quality plain yogurt (optional)
Croutons (optional)
- Heat the olive oil in a 4-quart or larger saucepan. Add the onion and leeks and sauté until softened. Add the carrots, rosemary sprigs, bay leaf, stock, a couple of pinches of coarse salt, a few grinds of coarse pepper, and a pinch of cayenne if using. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to simmer until the carrots soften, about 1 hour.
- Remove from the heat. Discard the rosemary and the bay leaf. Puree until smooth. Add in additional water if necessary. Return to the pot. Check the seasonings, adding salt, black pepper, and cayenne to taste.
- Serve warm or cooled. Garnish with a scoop of yogurt or croutons if desired.
MAKE BABY FOOD: Hells, yeah! This practically isbaby foodâbut the best baby food youâll ever taste.
Seems like a great book. I feel a lot of people could cook a lot better if only they knew where to learn.