Today’s guest poster has written here before. And why not? He’s my husband. Stephen’s also the hottest hot-dog-lover I know. Here’s his take on the great dogs of the Westchester-to-Connecticut I95 Corridor. (And folks, he’s doing Weight Watchers with me. Stephen ate all this food in one day and still managed to lose weight that week.)
Stephen’s writing his own blog, too, these days, Peel Slowly. It’s devoted to movies and music, his two loves, and I’m completely impartial when I say that if you read his blog you’ll never watch movies the same way again. Seriously, my husband was a born film school teacher.
Rawley, Walter, Frank, and Pat. I love these guys. Why? Because they make amazing hot dogs. They do this in a stretch of restaurants and food stands between Westchester County, NY, and lower Connecticut. My eating buddy Blake and I decided to hit all of them in a single day (and then some), so last Monday, we skipped breakfast; hopped in the car; queued up a healthy playlist of Sabbath, Prince, and Clapton; and headed 90 minutes north of Brooklyn. It was time for Hot Dog Day Afternoon.
Our first stop was Rawleyâs, a very unglamorous snack shack in Fairfield, CT. For the last few years, this has been my favorite adorned hot dog. They deep fry âem and finish âem on the grill. The Works is topped with mustard, sauerkraut, crumbled bacon bits, and their own relish. (I forego the sauerkraut.) Itâs gorgeous to look at and tastes even better.
The relish is a little sweet/a little tart, which mixes nicely with the bacon. None of the condiments (which is an insulting word for these lively toppings) overpower or disguise the flavor of the dog itself. I supposed itâs that deep fried cookinâ that helps the dog keep up its end of the deal.
I chose Rawleyâs first because I missed it so much (the last one I had was Fatherâs Day 2009), but it sure set a high standard.
Next, we continued north to Super Duper Weenie, also in Fairfield. This is probably the most savvy of all the places we went to, at least from the standpoint of contemporary methods (i.e. their website). Theyâre also the youngest place we ate (opened in 1992). And, frankly (pun intended), theyâre the weakest of the bunch.
Their missteps are just my opinion, but they reflect everything that can be subjective about hot dogs. In other words, I donât like them, but others do (and they do, too; that place is always packed).
All their big menu items mimic dogs from other cities, i.e. the âChicagoan.â I had the Cincinnatian, which has Cincinnati-style chili, cheddar cheese & chopped onions.
Hereâs what rubbed me the wrong way about this dog (and just about every other dog I had there over the years):
- Too many toppings. According to their website, they use only âjust the right cuts of beef and pork,â which is a great way to start, but every frank gets lost under a weight of toppings. (Can you see it in the picture above?) And the chili was fine, but nothinâ to blog home about.
- Too much bun. Too doughy. And not toasted enough. Thereâs nothing among hot dog junkies more debated than the Bun Variable. I think too much bun throws off the crucial dog-to-bun ratio.
- The cheese isnât melted. This really rubs me the wrong way. If youâre not going to melt it to the dog, then please melt it to the bun.
- Tough casing. Blake and I both had difficulties biting through the dog. Once, Blake pulled the balance of his out with his teeth, mid-bite.
Iâve given Super Duper Weenieâs dogs many chances over the years, but when I go again, Iâll try something else on their menu. Everything negative I said about their weenies has NO bearing on their fries, which are awesome.
Back onto 95, heading south now, we cranked up some Sabbath to get us to our next destination: Swanky Frankâs in Norwalk, CT. This is an olâ skool style caboose-shaped diner, and the âSwankyâ is ironic. More affordable than Rawleyâs or Super Duper Weenie, this was my first split dog of the day. I think this is the best way to cook a dog, and Frankâs grill has been doing it since 1976. The bun is toasted on said grill (too toasted? Perhaps), and the mustard relish is a great touch.
With my stomach acclimated to years of diner grills, eating this hot dog is like going home. And the same goes with anything at Frankâs: unpretentious eats, great prices, friendly service. Are they âperfectâ? Well, they too do not melt their cheese on the dog or bun, but thatâs a constant sticking point with me, so Iâll let âem slide. (Next time I go, Iâm going to ask them to melt it to the dog and I bet theyâll comply.)
Eric Clapton carried Blake and me into New York state (highway driving, hot dogs and white boy blues is a combo made in heaven). We went to Patâs Hubba Hubba, a hole in the wall with barstools, in Port Chester, NY. For me, it was a trip back in time since this was my favorite late meal spot when I was in film school, 20 years ago. A few years ago, ownership changed hands, so itâs now known only as Hubba, but itâll always be Patâs to me. I ordered my usual chili cheese dogâŠ
Gratefully, the chili recipe is the same as it was in 1990. It had Patâs trademarksâspicy, greasy, crunchy rollâbut as you can see in the picture, the cheese was off-center. Since they melt the cheeseâGod bless âemâplacement is crucial. The chili was as hot as ever, though in a smaller dose than I remember.
To call Patâs a âgreasy spoonâ implies the grease ends at the cutlery and food. Actually, itâs everywhere, as you can see after I moved my paper plateâŠ
I enjoyed my Patâs dog, but I was cheating myself of the full-on Patâs Hubba Hubba Experience: a cheese dog, a chili cheese dog, and an order of chili fries. This is what Iâd get regularly 20 years ago, after a full night of editing, and then Iâd go to bed. And that type of insane eating is just not in the cards nowadays.
Our final destination was Walterâs in Mamaroneck. This take-out stand has been around since 1919 (the oldest we visited). My wife grew up nearby, and she eagerly brought me there when we were courting (in an effort to catch my heart and clog it at the same time).
At some point, in my stomach, mustard and relish collided with the mustard-relish, and cheese (melted and otherwise) went head-to-head with the onions, and the rival chilis duked it out, so that by the time I sat down with the last dog, I was feeling, shall we say, less than. But I prevailed because a Walterâs dog is that good.
Split down the middle, grilled in butter, with their own mustard/relish blend, it looks like it was run over by a kidâs bike. Blake and I sat in the outdoor picnic area, in the shade, and finally snapped off some pictures that werenât exclusively of food. This is me, with Blake belowâŠ
We wound down the day like real men: we went to Mamaroneckâs Harbor Island park, looked at the boats, smoked some cigars, and talked about hot dogs. We were like two well-fed landowners. In my final assessment, Rawleyâs is still my favorite; Swanky Frankâs and Walterâs tied for second, followed by Patâs Hubba Hubbaâs chili cheese dog. Super Duper Weenie was a distant fifth.
Hopefully, Hot Dog Day Afternoon will become an annual tradition. Does anyone have a suggestion for Super Duper Weenie replacement?
Addresses and additional reviews:
- Rawleyâs, 1886 Post Road, Fairfield, CT, Roadfood review
- Super Duper Weenie, 306 Black Rock Turnpike, Fairfield, CT, Roadfood review
- Swanky Frankâs, 182 Connecticut Avenue Norwalk, CT, Roadfood review
- Hubba (formerly Patâs Hubba Hubba), 24 North Main Street, Port Chester, NY, Roadfood review
- Walterâs, 937 Palmer Avenue, Mamaroneck, NY, Roadfood review