Say what you will about us Jews, if thereâs one culinary realm where we really excel, itâs starch. All those years of poverty, of moving from country to country, shtetls and ghettos, often in the coldest climes, led to some mighty tasty uses for humble ingredients like potatoes and grains. Think about it: kasha varnishkes, challah, latkes (is it possible I didnât blog about those deliciously greasy treats this past Hanukkah?), matzoh, and, of course, kugel.
In last weekâs New York Times food section, Joan Nathan talked about the mystical powers of this carb-laden pudding, which came as a bit of a surprise to me. But this part really caught my eye:
âAllan Nadler, a professor of religious studies at Drew University, studied references to kugel in Hasidic texts and ate it in Brooklyn and in Jerusalem at about a dozen rebbesâ tishes, or tables, where male followers of a Hasidic rabbi gather to eat, sing and study the Torah.
According to Hasidic interpretations of Kabbalah mysticism, he said, kugel has special powers. âClearly the spiritual high point of the meal is the offering of the kugel,â Professor Nadler said. At that moment the rabbi has the power to bestow health and food, and even to help couples conceive.â
Whatâs that, Joan? With a bissel of kugel, couples can conceive? Considering how long weâve been trying, I say pass the pudding, please. Now. OK, we wonât have a rabbi at my brother and sister-in-lawâs for tomorrowâs pre-fast dinner, but maybe the fact that I made the kugel myself will combine with some good vibes to be enough.
This is my momâs recipeâIâve never made kugel before, if you can believe that. Probably thatâs because I thought it only came in industrial-size trays, enough to feed ten people or more, and thatâs a bit more than S and I need around the house. But when I asked her for the recipe, it turns out that my momâs been doubling it all these years! Who knew? In the end I doubled it, too, since there will be a crowd for dinner tomorrow night, but I baked it in a smaller pyrex than my mom usually does, and put the excess into a muffin tin. I thought my two nieces might get a kick out of nibbling on their own mini-kugels. Instructions below show how to make it either way.
Have an easy fast, if youâre doing itâŠ
Potato Kugel
Serves 6-8
4 large potatoes (2 cups when gratedâto double it I used 7 large potatoes, and got 8 cups of grated mush)
1 medium onion (or large, if you like it oniony)
2 oz. oil
2 large or extra large eggs
2 oz self-rising flour (or œ cup flour plus œ t. baking powder)
1 t. salt
Black pepper
Grate the potato and onion finely (this is easiest done in the food processor, in batches, using the regular blade). Place in a fine strainer to drain about 10 minutes.
Set the oven at 450. Put the oil in bottom of a small rectangular baking dish (or 2 muffin tins) and heat in oven.
Whisk the eggs until fluffy. Add the well-drained potatoes and onion, flour, salt, and pepper. Carefully swirl the hot oil around the baking dish or muffin tins to coat the sides, then pour the excess oil into the potato mixture. Blend thoroughly and pour it all into the baking dish (or spoon it into muffin tins).
Bake for 15 min., then turn the oven down to 350 F for a further hour, or until crisp, well-risen and golden brown. (If youâre doing the muffin tins, itâll be more like 15 minutes at 450 and 30-35 minutes at 350.)
Hi..Ok I have been searching for a very long time for a Potato Pudding recipe like my grandparents made..Well, I found it! It is incredibly delicious and easy. I’m even serving this at Thanksgiving as a side dish. Because as you said..we do like our starch! Thanks Again.
That’s great, Joan! Mmm, kugel for Thanksgiving. Good idea.
Hey Debbie! Here’s a small world moment. I want to make a potato kugel for a company potluck tomorrow, but don’t have a family recipe, so I just googled recipes and voila! yours came up. Since I’m clearly very last minute, I’m either going with your recipe or with Mitchell Kaplan’s from the Mensch Chef (remember that book?). Yours looks easier. Can I just double this recipe?
Alison!!! How awesome. I do remember that book–it’s still on my shelf. And yes, you can definitely double this recipe. I LOVE IT.